SHAWNIGAN LAKE — an Island Jewel
- Shawnigan Lake Museum
- Sep 23
- 6 min read
Updated: Oct 3
By Barbara Rodgers
The Islander
December 11, 1983
Like a jewel, Shawnigan Lake has many facets offering many attractions to many people. To some, it is ideal for seasonal fun or summer cottages, close to Victoria but far enough to engender a vacation atmosphere.
Others regard the lake as an excellent bedroom community, within easy driving distance, offering real estate at lower prices than Victoria, plus the possibility of lake frontage or a view.
In addition, there are the retirees who reside there not only for the scenery and peaceful atmosphere, but for its close proximity to city amenities. Most residents fit these categories with minor variations. However, apart from the foregoing, there is the true native who was born there or having lived there the greater part of their lives.
Philip Robertson was born in a handsomely built house facing the west side of the lake - the year was 1888. His mother was born in nearby Mill Bay in the early 1870s. One of Robertson’s comments epitomizes the changing spectrum at the lake. His mother owned 500 feet of lakeshore property - today that same property has five houses on it instead of one.
Robertson’s eyes were shining as he recounted those early days, the packed excursion trains, the merry social life, picnics and dances. He spoke of the logging of big timber and of the Lady of the Lake - a steam tug used for towing log booms. Daily he operated this tug, not only moving logs but carrying supplies and mail to the loggers up and down the lake. He chuckled as he recalled swimming two large Clydesdale horses across the lake in 1923. They were slated for logging work on the west side of the lake. He had to start them off in deep water and then keep rowing ahead. However, this presented a problem as they were fast swimmers, threatening to capsize his rowboat many times but, somehow, by dint of extreme effort he made it, worn out but jubilant.
I asked Robertson the origin of the name Shawnigan. He wasn’t sure, and thought perhaps it meant ‘treacherous’ or ‘lake that does not give up its dead’. I had heard that Indians (sic) would not die like. He agreed, saying that in early days Indians passed by in hunting parties but never carried for long. Another old timer referred me to the chronicle Green Branches & Fallen Leaves - a history of Shawnigan Lake compiled by Alice L. Gibson. I noted the following interesting comments on the name:
The name Shawnigan was in use as early as 1889. Most feel it is an Indian name, some believe it means “Lake of Many Shadows” or “The Lake where you went to hunt and camp.” Shawnigan means ‘Something Is Happening That I don’t Understand.’ An Indian legend tells of a battle between Island west coast Indians and an east coast tribe, because of the senselessness of this, the Indian gods were angry and called the lake Sha-ni-gan, meaning ‘the Abode of Evil Spirits, further decreeing that any Indians using the lake henceforth would be killed. Another tale states the name was derived from two men by the names of Shaw and Finnegan. This latter story is in doubt as the name Shawnigan was known long before the appearance of the aforementioned men.
There are other accounts, the choice is yours. My mother visiting from England, insisted the name was Irish. Be that as it may, one thing is agreed on by all; Indians have never resided around the lake. [Ed note: the previous comment is now disputed. According to Cowichan Elders, there are stories of an Indigenous summer settlement near the current site of St John’s Academy]
The event of the E&N railroad running between Esquimalt and Nanaimo put Shawnigan Lake on the map, opening it up to become a community. On Aug. 13, 1886, Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald drove the last spike at the lake. Robert Dunsmuir, Premier Joseph Trutch and Lady Macdonald were also present on that historic occasion. Not only did the railroad induce settlement, but a delightful era and lifestyle followed.
As early as April, 1887, the E&N ran the first excursion train with 200 passengers on board. Henceforth, many excursions were run for regattas, dances, concerts, fishing parties and picnics at Shawnigan. Imagine the gaiety of those days. Why, one excursion train alone brought 1000 people on it. Those were the gala days, not only for the lake, but for the old Iron Horse. Moreover, traffic volume increased so extensively that the E&N ran four passenger trains daily, besides numerous freight cars. Hard to imagine when today one small dayliner runs almost empty.
In anticipation of the railroad, Morton House, the first hotel was erected in 1885, proving to be a favorite with the visitors. It burned down in 1902 and was immediately superseded by the attractive Shawnigan Lake Hotel. Alas, this ill-fated establishment burned down in 1916 never to be replaced. Furthermore, fire appeared to be an ever prevalent threat to the lake, as we shall see.
The elegant Strathcona Hotel was built in 1900 for the sum of $15,000 put up by private shareholders. On May 15, just after The Daily Colonist reported its imminent opening, the new hotel burned down. Reconstruction followed directly and on Sept. 19 the hotel named after Lord Strathcona’s mounted rifle brigade, opened its doors to the public.
A further hotel was constructed on the west side of the lake. Originally named Savina Lodge, later changed to Savira, it catered to hunters and fishermen. This hotel enjoyed a reputation for excellent cuisine, this in spite of the fact that no electricity or pipe water was laid on. Either the chef had plenty of help or perhaps he was part saint, part martyr.
A brilliant social life emanated from the Strathcona and Shawnigan Lake hotels. So popular were the dances that even the sawmill was used for this purpose. The mill was an important development in the lake’s history. Started, in 1891, by the firm of Lossee & Morrison, eventually becoming the Shawnigan Lake Lumber Co., the mill burned down in December, 1915. Once again fire plagued the community. It was rebuilt and operated successfully until 1934 when fire razed it again. Acquired by H. R. MacMillan, in 1941, fire destroyed it for the final time, closing the mill permanently.
I was struck by the magnitude and repetition of these fires, especially when I learned that, in 1930, another disastrous blaze was ignited, apparently caused by high winds combined with burning along the railroad right of way. The fire appropriately called ‘The Big Fire,’ completely destroyed the commercial area. Nevertheless, this was not the last of the fires. In 1939, Robertson Meat Market burned down; in 1957, a classroom block at the Shawnigan Boys School was destroyed by fire. As one ponders these fires it seems only fitting to mention that a handsome new fire hall was opened at the lake this year. Perhaps one of the supposed meanings of Shawnigan is curiously apt after all — ‘Something is Happening that I Don’t Understand.’
The present village retains only a vestige of its original splendor. The Shawnigan Lake Community Hall lacks the architectural charm of its predecessor, the Athletic Association Hall built in 1910. The same applies to the commercial buildings in the village, most of which were erected in the 1930s and 1940s. Unfortunately, those depressed times produced diverse structures. However, it must be remarked that the kindness and courtesy of the persons operating these businesses more than compensate for the lack of grace.
Schools have played an important part of local history. Sitting among beautiful grounds, the attractive Shawnigan Lake Boys School adorns the north side of the lake. Founded in 1916, the school is renowned for its high scholastic standing and sports achievements.
A girls school flourished from 1927 until the depression depleted it, although it struggled along until 1951. That year saw its demise due to the changing times. This school which was built on the site of the Strathcona Hotel reopened, in 1959, only to succumb once more in the year 1977. Not far from the girls school, Cliffside Preparatory School enjoyed a fine reputation for several decades. Sustaining a severe fire, in 1971, it never really recovered and was closed in 1977.
Considering man’s appetite for news coverage, Shawnigan Lake’s first newspaper did not appear until 1976. At present the Community Crier is a small but useful informant of local news and services, but the Times-Colonist remains the chief source of international and national news just as it was in early days. Space does not permit me to reminisce about many of Shawnigan Lake’s colorful pioneers. Suffice to say the names of many streets bear mute testimony to their influence.
This beautiful village continues to play host to many visitors. The picnics, water sports, dramas, concerts and parades continue. However the scene appears to be changing gradually towards a back bedroom community. Many persons are alarmed at these signs. Until now the environment has been successfully preserved, but population growth forces changes. As new houses and streets are constructed, wildlife is ever pushed back, their habitat diminished; traffic increases, run off issues arise, lake ecology is threatened.
Nevertheless with careful planning and consideration such problems can be overcome and Shawnigan Lake will remain a jewel of rare beauty.
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